2010 Mercedes-Benz ML350 Engine Oil Capacity
The oil capacity of a 2010 Mercedes-Benz ML350 is 8.5 quarts, while the 350 BlueTEC turbodiesel engine’s oil capacity is 9.0 quarts.
Written by Cameron Thiessen
Reviewed by Brittni Brinn
The regular gasoline-powered 2010 Mercedes-Benz ML350 has an engine oil capacity of 8.5 US quarts. The turbodiesel ML350 BlueTEC engine has an oil capacity of 9.0 quarts.
Taking your car in for an
oil change
can get expensive—doing the oil change at home can save you a bit of money and keep your Mercedes-Benz running at peak efficiency! Hoping to change your own oil for your 2010 Mercedes Benz ML350? You’ll need to know its engine oil capacity, what kind of oil to use, and of course, how to do it! We’ll cover each of those things here, but don’t hesitate to consult your owner’s manual as well.
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The 2010 Mercedes-Benz ML350 was available with two different engines.
The gasoline engine’s oil capacity is 8.5 quarts or 8.0 liters with the filter included.
What kind of oil does a 2010 Mercedes-Benz ML350 need?
The type of oil you use also depends on which engine you have and also may depend on whether or not it has all-wheel drive (AWD). In any case, your
owner’s manual
recommends using Mobil oil. Here’s where your manual gets a bit difficult to parse through. It refers to the oil you should use by MB sheet number. Don’t worry—we already figured this out for you!
For the gasoline engine without AWD, it gives the MB sheet numbers 229.3/229.5.
Mobil’s website
says that Mobil 1 FS 0W-40, 5W-40, and 5W-50 advanced full synthetic motor oil are approved for these specs. You can use either, but 0W-40 is the safest bet if you often deal with especially cold weather—for hot weather, 5W-50 will perform well.For the ML350 BlueTEC, the owner’s manual recommends oil that meets the specifications of MB sheet number 229.51. This includes Mobil 1 ESP 0W-30 and 5W30 advanced full synthetic motor oils. Choose 0W-30 for colder temperatures and 5W-30 for hotter temperatures.
Oil viscosity grades explained
If you’re not used to reading SAE (Society of Automotive Engineers) viscosity grade designations (i.e. 0W-40), don’t get too hung up on it—we use viscosity ratings measured at different temperatures to describe oil’s thickness at different temperatures. As a general rule, the higher the number, the thicker the fluid is. Multi-grade oil is formulated to behave differently at different temperatures, which is why it gets two different ratings.
The number in front of the W (which stands for “winter”) is the oil’s cold temperature viscosity rating, while the second number is the high-temperature viscosity rating, measured at 212 degrees Fahrenheit (100 degrees Celsius).
Motor oil thickens as it gets colder and gets thinner when it warms up. But don’t let the two numbers confuse you! Despite the fact that its high-temperature viscosity rating is a higher number, 0W-30 oil is still thinner when hot. The “0W” simply means that in cold temperatures, the oil is behaving like an oil with a viscosity rating of 0 would.
A single-grade SAE 30 oil would work fine in warm enough weather, but it could easily get too thick in the cold, enough to prevent you from starting the engine in the winter. On the other hand, a single-grade SAE 0 would be thin enough to start an engine in cold weather, but it would get far too thin at operating temperature to properly do its job. With multi-grade oil, you get the best of both worlds!
How often to change the oil on a 2010 Mercedes-Benz ML350
But just hold your horses for a second! Is your oil really due for a change? If you’re using synthetic oil, as the owner’s manual suggests, you’ll need to replace it every 7,500 miles.
The 2010 ML350 is equipped with a maintenance service indicator that alerts you when you’re reaching a service interval. When this comes on, that means it’s time to get your oil changed, in addition to other regular maintenance items.
As a general rule, check your oil once per month. Also pay attention to the following warning signs:
- Oil that appears dark and opaque, instead of light and translucent (how it looks fresh out of the bottle)
- Oil that feels dirty to the touch
- Engine making strange noises/smells
- Reduced vehicle performance
How to change your oil and oil filter
If you’re doing your own oil change, you need a socket wrench, drain pan, and filter wrench as your main tools. You’ll also need a new replacement filter and the correct amount of the correct type of oil for your engine.
It’s helpful to have a way to jack up your car to make it easier to get underneath. You’re also going to want a pair of gloves and some rags if things get messy.
If it’s cold, run the engine for about two to three minutes to warm up and thin out the oil, making it easier to fully drain the dirty fluid out.
Next, follow these steps:
- Remove the oil fill cap under the hood.
- Take off the cover protecting the underside of the engine bay
- Find the oil drain plug and gasket. Position the drain pan to collect the oil when it starts draining
- Once you’re ready, remove the oil drain plug and washer gasket to start the oil draining. This is the messy part.
- Take out the old oil filter and install the fresh one.
- When the draining is complete, replace the oil drain plug with a new gasket, tightening to 23 lb-ft.
- Now, fill it up with the correct amount of oil.
Run the car for about half a minute to get the new oil moving through the filter, then check the oil level and check for leaks. You’ll also want to reset the maintenance service indicator so that it alerts you at the right time next time you’re due for maintenance and clears any current messages from your dash.
Finally, correctly dispose of old engine oil. Put it in a sealed container and bring it to your local recycling center.
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